2.Tibet and Everest Base Camp-The Third Pole -Part 2

The adventure continues…

Day 5 and 6 -Shigatse-Tingri and Everest Base Camp

Shigatse was another beautiful town and today was the day I was going to see Everest and stay at base camp. The group was buzzing- some on oxygen, some of us ok. We did hire some portable oxygen to take with us to base camp just in case. In Shigatse is where it started to feel cold. We decided to head straight to Everest and took in amazing scenery at Dingri of course I took so many photos with the amazing Tibetan flags and got to put mine up as well. A local lady hung mine for me while I sent silent prayers for world peace, and for love. For people to experience true richness as Tibetans believe that it is with knowledge and compassion- nothing else matters and how I would love for my family and friends to experience love, good health and happiness..mostly for people to just be kind.

At Guwala pass I took some amazing moody snowy photos of Tibet’s top 6 mountains and 6 of the highest peaks in the world above 8000m they are Mt Everest 8848.86, Mt Lhotse 4th highest peak in world 8,516 , Mt Makalu 8463 Cho Oyu 8201 , Mt Shishapangma 8012 and Mt Kangchenjunga 8586. A storm rolled in at Gyatso pass viewing Gangbeley mountain one of the mountains above 7000m I knew at that point the traditional blue sky views of the highest peaks was going to be impossible. I was happy I loved just experiencing the Himalayas and as the storm hit the peaks and mountains I was so excited I had goosebumps not from the cold wind but the fact i was there and shooting a snow storm in the Himalayas was pretty epic and now a core memory in my photography journey.

We arrived quite late to base camp, we had to transfer to an eco-bus and when we arrived it was minus 17 and windy and snowy and we could not see Everest. I had hope! I was excited just to see base camp. I had a room in the guest lodge which was in shipping containers. The room was actually really nice with oxygen and we had a base camp lounge. The tents were shut for winter. It was a dream come true to be there. The moods were electric with excitement although it was very hard to breathe and walk. I met two amazing Australian ladies, new friends of mine and Leah and I stayed up chatting while I used my portable oxygen and we drank tea until after everyone went to bed. It was then Leah said to me “stars are out,” and I raced to get my camera to shoot extreme astro in what was minus 17 during the day in the night colder with the wind chill on my own, freezing cold and just wanting to give astrophotography a try. A worker at camp saw me and helped me sort my oxygen and told me to shoot another way as it gets more stars. I thanked him as he went to bed, and I stood not just doing the photographer dance to keep warm but using my oxygen to breathe and try and hold my tripod down against the strong wind. In hindsight I knew it wasn’t going to be the best night of astro, but it was my most memorable and proud night as I gave it all I had physically. Within 10 minutes I had to go back into the room. Light from other’s rooms was blowing my photos out and star trailing from wind was impossible to escape. It had just snowed and was crazy up there and was concerned for frostbite. But me being me I raced back out to give it another 10-minute try. This time I held the tripod down for dear life/ The camera timer didn’t work to stabilize any shakes as the whole place was shaking with the wind, snow and ice but I think I have a few cute shots and some of base camp at night. An amazing experience. I went to bed but couldn’t sleep. I was at base camp, dancing, trying to de frost and so so happy.

The next morning, I was up early not sleeping so met up with a friend from the tour and he and I decided to wander down to Everest. It was a slow walk deep breaths, calm breaths and we pushed each other to make it down and kept spirits up that Everest would come through as we still couldn’t see her. We got lots of photos then headed back to the lounge meeting room to see where our group was. I decided to grab breakfast I actually at this point did not care if I got a full view of Everest, I was just so happy and feeling so blessed to be there and make it but it was then that Kunga another amazing guide came over and told me ‘ her top is through she’s there.’ I jumped up ..should I go? It was a yes go go…grabbed my cameras and walked back down so happy. There she was!!. finally showing herself. The moody shots I love show her peak then her body with clouds around her and Lhotse. It was just beautiful I would’ve cried but I was too cold, and my tears would’ve just frozen on my face. Actually, I am pretty sure I was wiping cold tears away. Walking back up after lots of shots I bumped into Leah and Chris and Kunga they pointed out wild yaks and I rushed back to find my group who were at Ronbuk monastery at Base camp where you could see Everest. We visited inside the monastery and took in our surroundings at base camp. It was another snowy day, and views took a bad turn not long after and Everest was gone again. We headed back to Shigatse. Tonight, we celebrated with a traditional dinner and show.

Day 8 we said our goodbyes to Everest and Lhotse and the Himalayas and headed to Lhasa.

That night I met up with Leah and Chris from the other tour and we decided to have dinner at Snowtown in Oldtown Lhasa and have a Lhasa beer and dinner to celebrate our achievement and having a dream come true. We walked around and saw the bead trade markets and met some fun locals who made cute jokes about my chin piercing and wondering how on earth I eat soup which was pretty funny whilst taking videos of us for their version of TikTok.

Day 9 Namsto Holy lake

As tours went separate ways, 6 of us made our way to Namsto Holy lake 4700 above sea level. It was beautiful. We had to get another eco bus to the lake and there the snowy mountains and beautiful highest saltwater lake in the world. It was peaceful and tranquil. I took a walk and watched people making Kora and found a spot to sit breathe and meditate. It was then a monk came out of his cliff side monastery and blessed me with Tashi Delek a Tibetan blessing or greeting and meaning more than a hello it is wishing good health and good luck.

I took some photos but here I wanted to just relax and decompress and spend some time alone and just find peace in the holiest place outdoors. I left Namsto lake feeling complete and more content than I had in years. As I thought about the last week and what I had experienced.

We went out for karaoke and hot pot that night in Dunxang which was so much fun.

Day 9 Bye to Namsto Holy lake

We visited Chimelong nunnery the largest nunnery in Lhasa and Tsurphu Monastery and headed back to Lhasa. It was sad saying goodbye to Tibet and the people I met on the way.

On day 10

I flew back to China. Tibet, it didn’t change me it just solidified who I am. It gave me peace; and that i do believe we have it all wrong. It is not about money and popularity and prestige. Life is about the people you love and compassion and knowledge..true knowledge. It is not followers or arrogance and rudeness and the nonsense of social media. I have come back centered in who I am, and I am proud of that.

It was such an incredible adventure I am still taking it all in. I hope you enjoyed this three part blog I truly wanted to make these blogs visually beautiful to do Tibet justice. It was stunning,culturally rich, inspiring and touched my soul. I miss it already.

For those interested in prints of Everest they will be available in mid January.

Thank you for reading along on my adventures for your love, support and coffees and messages i am truly grateful for you all.

If anyone reading is thinking of going to Tibet please contact me and I can refer you to my agent Mary and guide Dickey who can help you have an experience of a lifetime as I did..

Until next time see you out there shooting,

Toni xx

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